Bring 4 cups Fish Stock to boil. Add 4 oz light green Grand Fir needles (Abies grandis) from new spring shoots and infuse for 20 minutes for a very citrusy, pleasant flavour. Strain and reserve liquid. In a little canola oil over medium, gently sauté 1 fennel bulb, 1 carrot & 1 leek, sliced. Add the infused fish stock and 1 cup white wine (Northwest Gewurztraminer would be excellent), then simmer until the vegetables are tender. Purée 2 whole roasted garlic (skins removed) until smooth and add to broth. Add 1/2 lb fresh Dungeness Crab meat and gently heat through. Season with sea salt to taste, and garnish with crumbled dry sugar kelp or bull kelp. Serves 4.
Chef Bill Jones, Sooke Harbour House, 1528 Whiffen Spit Road, Sooke, 250-642-3421. Sooke Harbour House has been like a greenhouse for several incredible eat-local chefs like Bill